How to Wash Silk Lingerie, Robes and Slips Safely

Quick answer

Hand wash silk lingerie, robes and slips in cool water with a pH-neutral silk detergent, then rinse gently and press the water out in a towel. Dry flat away from direct sun or heat, and never wring, scrub or tumble dry silk.

Why hand washing is the safest method for silk

Silk is a protein fiber, so it responds badly to the same conditions that damage wool: heat, alkaline soap and mechanical friction. A washing machine's drum and spin cycle can abrade the surface, cause permanent creases, and stretch bias-cut panels out of shape. Hand washing gives you control over water temperature, detergent strength and how much agitation the fabric receives. If a care label explicitly allows machine washing, use a mesh bag on the most delicate cycle, but hand washing remains the safer default for silk charmeuse, lace-trimmed pieces and anything with adjustable straps or fine hardware.

Prepare the wash basin and sort your silks

Fill a clean basin or sink with cool water, around 30°C (86°F) or below. Add a small amount of pH-neutral silk or wool detergent and swish it through the water before adding garments. Sort by color and by weight: wash pale silks separately from dark ones, and keep heavily trimmed pieces away from plain ones to avoid snags. If a garment has a care label, read it first; if it says dry clean only, follow that rather than guessing. As a general rule, wash silk garments one at a time or in very small loads so they have room to move without rubbing against each other.

• Use a dedicated basin or a clean sink with no residue of bleach or abrasive cleaner.
• Test for color bleeding by dipping a hidden hem in the water for a minute before washing the whole piece.
• Keep lace-trimmed and beaded pieces separate to prevent snags.

Wash gently, then rinse without wringing

Submerge the garment and let it soak for three to five minutes. Gently squeeze the suds through the fabric with your fingertips; do not scrub, twist or rub the silk against itself. For spots, dab a little detergent directly on the area and use your fingers, not a brush. Lift the garment out and drain the basin, then refill with cool clean water. Rinse by dipping and gently squeezing until the water runs clear. Never hold silk under a running tap, because the force of the water can distort the fibers.

• If the water turns cloudy or soapy after two rinses, repeat with fresh cool water.
• Do not leave silk soaking for more than ten minutes, as prolonged soaking can dull the finish.
• Support the garment with both hands when lifting it out; wet silk is heavier and more fragile.

Remove water and dry silk flat

Lay a clean, light-colored towel flat on a drying rack or counter. Place the silk garment on top, then roll the towel and garment together like a jelly roll, pressing gently to absorb excess water. Do not wring or twist the roll. Unroll, then lay the garment flat on a fresh dry towel or a mesh drying rack, reshaping it to its original dimensions. Keep it out of direct sunlight and away from radiators, hair dryers or any heat source, which can yellow silk and weaken fibers. Turn lace-trimmed pieces so the lace faces up and does not press into the towel, which helps it hold its shape.

• Avoid hanging wet silk on a line or hanger, as the weight of the water can stretch the shoulders and straps.
• If you must hang a robe, use a padded hanger and support the body of the robe with your hand while lifting.
• Allow 12 to 24 hours for thorough drying, depending on humidity.

Handle wrinkles and restore softness

Once dry, most silk will relax on its own. If wrinkles remain, steam the garment from a distance of 15–20 cm (6–8 inches) using a handheld steamer, or iron on the lowest silk setting with a pressing cloth between the iron and the fabric. Never spray water directly onto silk, as it can leave water spots. To keep silk soft, avoid fabric softener and dryer sheets, which leave a coating that can stiffen the fiber over time. A pH-neutral detergent and a gentle hand wash are enough to maintain the natural luster.

• Test the iron on an inside hem first, especially on dark or brightly colored silk.
• Hang or fold garments only after they are completely dry to prevent mildew.
• Store clean silk away from direct light and in a breathable cotton bag, not plastic.

Step-by-step silk washing routine

1. Check the care label and test for color bleeding: Read the label first. If it says dry clean only, stop and take it to a professional. Otherwise, dip a hidden hem in cool water for one minute and blot with a white cloth to check for dye release. If color transfers, wash that piece alone or skip hand washing.
2. Fill a basin with cool water and pH-neutral detergent: Use water at or below 30°C (86°F). Add a small amount of silk or wool detergent and mix it in before adding the garment. Never use bleach, enzyme detergent or fabric softener. Too much detergent leaves residue that dulls silk; use less than you think you need.
3. Soak and gently squeeze suds through the fabric: Submerge the garment for three to five minutes. Gently squeeze the soapy water through the silk with your fingertips. Do not rub, scrub or twist. For spots, dab detergent directly and work it in with your fingers. If you see yourself scrubbing, stop; friction causes permanent damage.
4. Rinse in cool water until it runs clear: Drain the basin and refill with clean cool water. Dip and gently squeeze the garment until no suds remain. Change the water as needed. Never hold silk under a running tap. Two or three rinses are normal; cloudy water means keep rinsing.
5. Roll in a towel to remove excess water: Lay the garment flat on a clean towel, roll the towel and garment together, and press gently. Do not wring or twist the roll. Unroll and reshape the garment. The towel should feel damp, not dripping, before you lay the silk out to dry.
6. Dry flat away from heat and sun: Place the garment flat on a dry towel or mesh rack, reshaping it to its original dimensions. Keep it out of direct sunlight and away from radiators or hair dryers. Turn lace-trimmed pieces lace-side up. Hanging wet silk can stretch it; always dry flat.
7. Steam or iron on low if needed, then store properly: Once dry, steam from a distance or iron on the lowest silk setting with a pressing cloth. Never spray water directly on silk. Store folded in a breathable cotton bag away from light. Skip fabric softener and dryer sheets; they coat the silk and reduce softness over time.

Silk pieces that reward careful washing

• Obsidian Skull Camisole: The Obsidian Skull Camisole is made from lightweight black silk charmeuse with an intricate insertion lace skull and symmetric bow detail, assembled from a mix of vintage and contemporary laces. The combination of delicate lace and silk charmeuse means hand washing is the safest way to protect the lace from snags and the silk from stretching.
• Corsage Petal Camisole: The Corsage Petal Camisole uses heirloom-worthy silk charmeuse with a richly hued floral print on an inky black background, trimmed in delicate English Valenciennes lace. The printed silk surface can be sensitive to heat and friction, so cool hand washing and flat drying help preserve the print and the lace trim.
• Jet Bralette: The Jet Bralette has sheer heart-dotted French lace cups, Petersham and adjustable silk satin straps, and a wraparound band with button and elastic fastening under each cup. The lace cups and silk satin straps need gentle handling; hand washing prevents the elastic from stretching and keeps the lace from catching on other garments.